Dior couture dazzling but erratic

Dior creative director Bill Gaytten sent out this homage to the sad clown Pierrot at the end of the first show he did in 15 years without John Galliano.

By Jeanne BekerFashion Columnist

PARIS:- Colourful mosaic appliqués, off-beat geometric headpieces, tiers of chiffon on grand ball gowns, and glittering confetti paillettes should have made for a joyful buzz inside the tent on the-grounds of the Musée Rodin. Instead, the erratic Dior haute couture collection left many fashion insiders scratching their-heads, lamenting the loss of the house’s creative director, John Galliano, and longing for just--the right knight in shining armour to be named as his replacement.
Earlier this year, just before-the fall ready to wear-collections got underway, the disgraced Galliano was dumped by Dior amid a blaze of controversy. A video showing the genius-British designer praising Hitler and making other racist remarks went viral, and within days Galliano was ousted-from the house after 15 years of exquisite collections and some of the most theatrically impressive-presentations in fashion. Citing the pressures of his job as well as drugs and alcohol as the reason for his inexcusable behaviour, many have opined that Galliano committed career-suicide. Judgment will passed on Sept. 8, when a verdict is expected in the trial on charges of public insult. Meanwhile, LVMH, the powerful luxury goods group that-owns Dior, is taking its time naming a successor to Galliano.


“We want to find a long-term solution,” stressed Dior president Sydney Toledano in an interview after the show. While several names have been bandied about for the potential-post, from Haider Ackermann and Riccardo Tisci to Azzedine Alaia, there hasn’t been any news. In the meantime, 51-year-old Bill Gaytten, who worked alongside Galliano for 23 years, has been named creative director of Galliano’s-namesake label (also controlled by LVMH) and oversaw the hotly anticipated Dior couture-collection.

Of all the impressive-labels owned by LVMH, Dior is considered to be the jewel in its crown. Unquestionably, the team is known as one of the most accomplished in the-business. And there’s no doubt that Gaytten, an expert cutter and pattern maker, is a most talented-designer.

But many-insiders who saw Monday’s Dior show felt the magic was missing. Though its signature 1947 New Look silhouette was out in full force, with several gargantuan ball gowns upping the fantasy-ante, there didn’t seem to be a cohesive story going on. 

Gaytten said he-wanted to create a very modern collection, and the team drew inspiration from Italian Memphis Group architect Ettore Sottsass, French art director Jean Paul Goude and Toronto-born architect-Frank Ghery. However, the resulting hodgepodge of ideas came off as a kind of pop pastiche. The appearance of St. Louis model Karlie Kloss at the show’s end, dressed as the sad clown-Pierrot in an elaborate black and white creation, served as a poignant punctuation mark perhaps acknowledging the longing this house has for a hero to take it into a new age.

Post-show, I asked Kloss-how she felt doing the Dior show without Galliano. She looked at me wistfully and quickly changed the subject “I’m just thrilled to be able to wear such amazing things,” she insisted. “Just Look at this outfit!” she gushed, pointing out her lavish, ruffled tulle collar. “Isn’t it gorgeous?” 

Some are suggesting it’s the beginning of a new era in fashion, one in which celebrity-designers do not helm houses and it’s about “the workmanship of the ateliers, what the team produces together,” starchitect-Peter Marino said in an interview. But others, like the iconic Marisa Berenson, believe a fashion house, especially with the kind of huge legacy that Dior has, “needs a visionary at its helm for direction.”

Then there are those who simply long for the good old days. “I just wish they’d give Galliano a second chance,” confided New York’s Joyce Samuels, a Dior client-for over 40 years. Samuels, decked out in a pastel floral coat with matching big-brimmed hat from the garden inspired collection Galliano presented for Dior Couture last year, knows it’s a daunting challenge.

But, as Berenson-noted, “fashion is always changing, and we always do manage to pick ourselves up and keep on going.”

The fashion-world is watching as Dior finds its way. 
source: http://www.thestar.com/living/fashion/article/1020708--dior-couture-dazzling-but-erratic

Dior couture dazzling but erratic

Dior creative director Bill Gaytten sent out this homage to the sad clown Pierrot at the end of the first show he did in 15 years without John Galliano.

By Jeanne BekerFashion Columnist

PARIS:- Colourful mosaic appliqués, off-beat geometric headpieces, tiers of chiffon on grand ball gowns, and glittering confetti paillettes should have made for a joyful buzz inside the tent on the-grounds of the Musée Rodin. Instead, the erratic Dior haute couture collection left many fashion insiders scratching their-heads, lamenting the loss of the house’s creative director, John Galliano, and longing for just--the right knight in shining armour to be named as his replacement.
Earlier this year, just before-the fall ready to wear-collections got underway, the disgraced Galliano was dumped by Dior amid a blaze of controversy. A video showing the genius-British designer praising Hitler and making other racist remarks went viral, and within days Galliano was ousted-from the house after 15 years of exquisite collections and some of the most theatrically impressive-presentations in fashion. Citing the pressures of his job as well as drugs and alcohol as the reason for his inexcusable behaviour, many have opined that Galliano committed career-suicide. Judgment will passed on Sept. 8, when a verdict is expected in the trial on charges of public insult. Meanwhile, LVMH, the powerful luxury goods group that-owns Dior, is taking its time naming a successor to Galliano.


“We want to find a long-term solution,” stressed Dior president Sydney Toledano in an interview after the show. While several names have been bandied about for the potential-post, from Haider Ackermann and Riccardo Tisci to Azzedine Alaia, there hasn’t been any news. In the meantime, 51-year-old Bill Gaytten, who worked alongside Galliano for 23 years, has been named creative director of Galliano’s-namesake label (also controlled by LVMH) and oversaw the hotly anticipated Dior couture-collection.

Of all the impressive-labels owned by LVMH, Dior is considered to be the jewel in its crown. Unquestionably, the team is known as one of the most accomplished in the-business. And there’s no doubt that Gaytten, an expert cutter and pattern maker, is a most talented-designer.

But many-insiders who saw Monday’s Dior show felt the magic was missing. Though its signature 1947 New Look silhouette was out in full force, with several gargantuan ball gowns upping the fantasy-ante, there didn’t seem to be a cohesive story going on. 

Gaytten said he-wanted to create a very modern collection, and the team drew inspiration from Italian Memphis Group architect Ettore Sottsass, French art director Jean Paul Goude and Toronto-born architect-Frank Ghery. However, the resulting hodgepodge of ideas came off as a kind of pop pastiche. The appearance of St. Louis model Karlie Kloss at the show’s end, dressed as the sad clown-Pierrot in an elaborate black and white creation, served as a poignant punctuation mark perhaps acknowledging the longing this house has for a hero to take it into a new age.

Post-show, I asked Kloss-how she felt doing the Dior show without Galliano. She looked at me wistfully and quickly changed the subject “I’m just thrilled to be able to wear such amazing things,” she insisted. “Just Look at this outfit!” she gushed, pointing out her lavish, ruffled tulle collar. “Isn’t it gorgeous?” 

Some are suggesting it’s the beginning of a new era in fashion, one in which celebrity-designers do not helm houses and it’s about “the workmanship of the ateliers, what the team produces together,” starchitect-Peter Marino said in an interview. But others, like the iconic Marisa Berenson, believe a fashion house, especially with the kind of huge legacy that Dior has, “needs a visionary at its helm for direction.”

Then there are those who simply long for the good old days. “I just wish they’d give Galliano a second chance,” confided New York’s Joyce Samuels, a Dior client-for over 40 years. Samuels, decked out in a pastel floral coat with matching big-brimmed hat from the garden inspired collection Galliano presented for Dior Couture last year, knows it’s a daunting challenge.

But, as Berenson-noted, “fashion is always changing, and we always do manage to pick ourselves up and keep on going.”

The fashion-world is watching as Dior finds its way. 
source: http://www.thestar.com/living/fashion/article/1020708--dior-couture-dazzling-but-erratic

Graduate Fashion Week Announces George Gold Award

                         Eileen-Pang Liv., modelled by Amber le Bon, Photo: JOHN WRIGHT

As the biggest-prize in British Fashion Education, Graduate Fashion Week Gold Award has become one of the most anticipated and coveted on the fashion calendar. Graduate Fashion Week is delighted to announce that the panel of judges for this year’s award will be Amanda Wakeley, Patrick Grant, creative director Norton & Sons and E.Tautz, Lucy Yeomans, editor-Harpers Bazaar and Fiona Lambert, design director, George.

Date: June 5-8, 2011

Venue: Earls Court 2, London

Amanda Wakeley launched her signature label in 1990 and over the last two decades has developed an international reputation for designing stylish, supremely luxurious, womenswear and accessories. Amanda was awarded an OBE for her services to the fashion industry on 16th February 2010. She is also the winner of several awards including-three British Fashion-Awards for Glamour.

Over the years, Amanda Wakeley has dressed-stars such as; Scarlett Johansson, Demi Moore, Kate Beckinsdale, Dita Von Teese, Charlize Theron, Jada Pinkett Smith, Mischa Barton, Sarah Michelle Gellar, Helen Mirren and Kate Winslet. Amanda Wakeley has also had the honour to dress-many members of Royal families, most notably the late Princess of Wales and Queen Rania of Jordan.

Amanda Wakeley

"I am really excited about being involved in the judging of this year's Gold Award at Graduate Fashion Week. Seeing new designer's at the start of their career is so inspirational-and I'm sure we'll spot some of the stars of tomorrow. British Universities are renowned for their creativity and inspirational training of the world's fashion industry and I can't wait to see what this year's generation-has in store for us."

Celebrated-menswear designer Patrick Grant has been the creative director of men’s luxury ready to wear brand E. Tautz since 2009 when he revived this classic British brand. Patrick is the current British Fashion Council’s Menswear Designer of the Year and the only menswear designer to make the shortlist for the BFC/Vogue Fashion-Fund (2009 and 2010).

Patrick Grant

“Britain’s fashion schools-attract the best young talent and their record of producing exceptional designers is unmatched. I am excited to see the very best of this year’s graduating-class."

The judges-will review ten shortlisted collections made from 19 catwalk shows and put the students through a gruelling interview process, before selecting the winner of the £20,000 prize money. They will also select a Menswear and Womenswear award-winner. 

To ensure that absolutely-none of the event’s exceptional catwalk talent is missed, an elite industry panel of preliminary judges is in place to join the audience at every university show to highlight what they consider to be the hottest collection from each show. The judges include GFW Trustee Professor Wendy Dagworthy, Sandra Hill, Paul Smith Head of Womenswear, Mark Eley (Eley Kishimoto) and Head of design, Sadie Robson from-George at Asda. 

Graduate Fashion Week Announces George Gold Award

                         Eileen-Pang Liv., modelled by Amber le Bon, Photo: JOHN WRIGHT

As the biggest-prize in British Fashion Education, Graduate Fashion Week Gold Award has become one of the most anticipated and coveted on the fashion calendar. Graduate Fashion Week is delighted to announce that the panel of judges for this year’s award will be Amanda Wakeley, Patrick Grant, creative director Norton & Sons and E.Tautz, Lucy Yeomans, editor-Harpers Bazaar and Fiona Lambert, design director, George.

Date: June 5-8, 2011

Venue: Earls Court 2, London

Amanda Wakeley launched her signature label in 1990 and over the last two decades has developed an international reputation for designing stylish, supremely luxurious, womenswear and accessories. Amanda was awarded an OBE for her services to the fashion industry on 16th February 2010. She is also the winner of several awards including-three British Fashion-Awards for Glamour.

Over the years, Amanda Wakeley has dressed-stars such as; Scarlett Johansson, Demi Moore, Kate Beckinsdale, Dita Von Teese, Charlize Theron, Jada Pinkett Smith, Mischa Barton, Sarah Michelle Gellar, Helen Mirren and Kate Winslet. Amanda Wakeley has also had the honour to dress-many members of Royal families, most notably the late Princess of Wales and Queen Rania of Jordan.

Amanda Wakeley

"I am really excited about being involved in the judging of this year's Gold Award at Graduate Fashion Week. Seeing new designer's at the start of their career is so inspirational-and I'm sure we'll spot some of the stars of tomorrow. British Universities are renowned for their creativity and inspirational training of the world's fashion industry and I can't wait to see what this year's generation-has in store for us."

Celebrated-menswear designer Patrick Grant has been the creative director of men’s luxury ready to wear brand E. Tautz since 2009 when he revived this classic British brand. Patrick is the current British Fashion Council’s Menswear Designer of the Year and the only menswear designer to make the shortlist for the BFC/Vogue Fashion-Fund (2009 and 2010).

Patrick Grant

“Britain’s fashion schools-attract the best young talent and their record of producing exceptional designers is unmatched. I am excited to see the very best of this year’s graduating-class."

The judges-will review ten shortlisted collections made from 19 catwalk shows and put the students through a gruelling interview process, before selecting the winner of the £20,000 prize money. They will also select a Menswear and Womenswear award-winner. 

To ensure that absolutely-none of the event’s exceptional catwalk talent is missed, an elite industry panel of preliminary judges is in place to join the audience at every university show to highlight what they consider to be the hottest collection from each show. The judges include GFW Trustee Professor Wendy Dagworthy, Sandra Hill, Paul Smith Head of Womenswear, Mark Eley (Eley Kishimoto) and Head of design, Sadie Robson from-George at Asda. 

Luxury Brand Fendi launches New fashion line on Seoul floating island

Brushing off controversy over its use of fur, luxury brand Fendi launched its fall and winter fashion line-on a large man made island in Seoul to highlight its--creativity.
Models showing Fendi's new collection, including-the Italian fashion house's signature fur items, strutted down the catwalk as hundreds of celebrities, guests and journalists watched what was only Fendi's second ever show in Asia.
"We don't do shows just-to do shows. We don't do shows to repeat what we showed in Milan," said Fendi CEO Michael Burke of the Thursday event.
"If we're going to do a fashion show, it has to be something noble, innovative, creative and sometimes risky. We like-that. There's no creativity without risk."


But Fendi's journey to-the launch on the world's largest artificial "floating island," itself unveiled less than a month ago, was far from easy.
The Seoul government, which is in charge of the island in the Han River, demanded that fur be excluded from-the show in response to protests from anti-fur activists about this use of a public venue.
Fendi countered that, with-only weeks to go, it was too late to change the plans for a show that usually takes months of planning and a substantial budget.
Eventually Fendi introduced a greater variety of items, including bags, shoes and other accessories, in an attempt to diminish the focus on fur.
It also said it would provide scholarships for young South Korean designers and sponsor design contests-for college students, with an internship provided to the winners.
"Being able to do this show on the floating island ranks up there as one of the very best and unique and authentic events we've done," Burke said, adding that the show wasn't only about fur.
"Of course, a fashion house like Fendi also does fur, so of course there are going to be some fur pieces.. Some people had said it would be a fur show, which-was obviously not as you can see," he added.
But animal rights activists were unconvinced, with about a hundred protesters gathering in front of the island.
Chanting anti-fur slogans as models and guests walked into the venue, they also soaked fur items with red paint and displayed a banner with "Fendi" written on it, along-with lurid sprays of red paint and a paint-soaked stuffed animal.
"We're furious that Fendi has brought fur into this country and makes people buy them when people abroad have turned away from fur," said activist Park So-yeon.
"We're earnestly hoping that as a global luxury brand, Fendi will develop varied items besides fur."
Fendi is a unit of the French luxury conglomerate LVMH. Its previous-Asian show was in 2007, at China's Great Wall.

Luxury Brand Fendi launches New fashion line on Seoul floating island

Brushing off controversy over its use of fur, luxury brand Fendi launched its fall and winter fashion line-on a large man made island in Seoul to highlight its--creativity.
Models showing Fendi's new collection, including-the Italian fashion house's signature fur items, strutted down the catwalk as hundreds of celebrities, guests and journalists watched what was only Fendi's second ever show in Asia.
"We don't do shows just-to do shows. We don't do shows to repeat what we showed in Milan," said Fendi CEO Michael Burke of the Thursday event.
"If we're going to do a fashion show, it has to be something noble, innovative, creative and sometimes risky. We like-that. There's no creativity without risk."


But Fendi's journey to-the launch on the world's largest artificial "floating island," itself unveiled less than a month ago, was far from easy.
The Seoul government, which is in charge of the island in the Han River, demanded that fur be excluded from-the show in response to protests from anti-fur activists about this use of a public venue.
Fendi countered that, with-only weeks to go, it was too late to change the plans for a show that usually takes months of planning and a substantial budget.
Eventually Fendi introduced a greater variety of items, including bags, shoes and other accessories, in an attempt to diminish the focus on fur.
It also said it would provide scholarships for young South Korean designers and sponsor design contests-for college students, with an internship provided to the winners.
"Being able to do this show on the floating island ranks up there as one of the very best and unique and authentic events we've done," Burke said, adding that the show wasn't only about fur.
"Of course, a fashion house like Fendi also does fur, so of course there are going to be some fur pieces.. Some people had said it would be a fur show, which-was obviously not as you can see," he added.
But animal rights activists were unconvinced, with about a hundred protesters gathering in front of the island.
Chanting anti-fur slogans as models and guests walked into the venue, they also soaked fur items with red paint and displayed a banner with "Fendi" written on it, along-with lurid sprays of red paint and a paint-soaked stuffed animal.
"We're furious that Fendi has brought fur into this country and makes people buy them when people abroad have turned away from fur," said activist Park So-yeon.
"We're earnestly hoping that as a global luxury brand, Fendi will develop varied items besides fur."
Fendi is a unit of the French luxury conglomerate LVMH. Its previous-Asian show was in 2007, at China's Great Wall.

Royal College of Arts Graduate Fashion Show 2011

Cross dressing, neon rubber and fur feature at the College's annual showcase of fashion's newest design-talents.

Philipp Schueller Photo: GETTY

Impatient foot-tapping usually sounds out the summer - a season that fatigues those in the industry for its lack of sartorial fodder until the September shows. But something always momentarily-halts those bored taps in the interim: the graduate fashion collections. After Central Saint Martins kicked things off earlier this week, it was-the turn of 36 young designers at the Royal College of Art to stir the fashion-crowd.

Royal College of Arts Graduate Fashion Show 2011

Cross dressing, neon rubber and fur feature at the College's annual showcase of fashion's newest design-talents.

Philipp Schueller Photo: GETTY

Impatient foot-tapping usually sounds out the summer - a season that fatigues those in the industry for its lack of sartorial fodder until the September shows. But something always momentarily-halts those bored taps in the interim: the graduate fashion collections. After Central Saint Martins kicked things off earlier this week, it was-the turn of 36 young designers at the Royal College of Art to stir the fashion-crowd.

Inspiring fashion, Inspiring location

Collections of the week Bohoboco won the most press from Fashion Week Poland, while Łukasz Jemioł showed a sophisticated range

Joanna Mroczkowska reports from the latest Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week in Poland, held in the city of Łódź

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MODA FORTE

THE FOURTH POLISH FASHION WEEK WAS held last month. Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, to give its official title, aims to show the strong presence of the fashion industry within Poland.


Although still young, Polish Fashion Week is starting to get big attention from overseas. Kenzo Takada, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Nuno Gama, Miguel Vieira, François Emeric, Patrizia Gucci and Gaspard Yurkiewich all attended. The organizers have been promoting the event not only to fashion journalists but to people interested in the industry, in art, and to celebrities.

One of the main highlights was On Aura Tout Vu, a Bulgarian duo who designs for Lady Gaga. Diane Pernet, a French blogger and former designer, showed ASVOFF (A Shaded View On Fashion Film). Each day at Fashion Week was finished with three official parties.
Fashion Week Poland took place in Łódź, a city near Warszawa, well known for its associations with the fashion and textile industry for over two hundred years. The unique nineteenth-century feel of the city was an inspiration for many artists.


One highlight from the Polish Fashion Week is OFF Out of Schedule, showing young designers and alternative projects. The OFF shows were hosted in abandoned factories, giving a creepy and unforgettable experience.
Konrad Parol (above and above right) did a great job with his “green mile”, where models made their way to an electric chair with the sound of an electric razor in the background. His show, like his style, was very dark. One of the most eccentric designers, Maldoror (left), presented a futuristic, oriental-style collection. Young Brazilian creator Vitor Bastos (below) added a great foreign accent with his fourth collection, inspired by Tanzanian albinos. He is already well known to Lucire readers from Lisboa’s fashion week.
There was also a commercial section of Fashion Week, Designers’ Avenue. The mainstream segment hosted around twenty shows over four days. This year, one of the best reviewed was Bohoboco, a Warszawa duo who wonderfully mixed styles. Bohoboco is well known for dressing Polish celebrities. Zuo Corp (zuo, or zło, in Polish means evil) showed a very clean, symmetrical and humorous collection (bottom). As always, Łukasz Jemioł showed a very classic, sophisticated and casual range. Michał Szulc was depressing and minimalist, the public loved it!
The Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland has a lot to offer and inspire. The next and fifth Polish Fashion Week will be held this October.

Inspiring fashion, Inspiring location

Collections of the week Bohoboco won the most press from Fashion Week Poland, while Łukasz Jemioł showed a sophisticated range

Joanna Mroczkowska reports from the latest Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week in Poland, held in the city of Łódź

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MODA FORTE

THE FOURTH POLISH FASHION WEEK WAS held last month. Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, to give its official title, aims to show the strong presence of the fashion industry within Poland.


Although still young, Polish Fashion Week is starting to get big attention from overseas. Kenzo Takada, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Nuno Gama, Miguel Vieira, François Emeric, Patrizia Gucci and Gaspard Yurkiewich all attended. The organizers have been promoting the event not only to fashion journalists but to people interested in the industry, in art, and to celebrities.

One of the main highlights was On Aura Tout Vu, a Bulgarian duo who designs for Lady Gaga. Diane Pernet, a French blogger and former designer, showed ASVOFF (A Shaded View On Fashion Film). Each day at Fashion Week was finished with three official parties.
Fashion Week Poland took place in Łódź, a city near Warszawa, well known for its associations with the fashion and textile industry for over two hundred years. The unique nineteenth-century feel of the city was an inspiration for many artists.


One highlight from the Polish Fashion Week is OFF Out of Schedule, showing young designers and alternative projects. The OFF shows were hosted in abandoned factories, giving a creepy and unforgettable experience.
Konrad Parol (above and above right) did a great job with his “green mile”, where models made their way to an electric chair with the sound of an electric razor in the background. His show, like his style, was very dark. One of the most eccentric designers, Maldoror (left), presented a futuristic, oriental-style collection. Young Brazilian creator Vitor Bastos (below) added a great foreign accent with his fourth collection, inspired by Tanzanian albinos. He is already well known to Lucire readers from Lisboa’s fashion week.
There was also a commercial section of Fashion Week, Designers’ Avenue. The mainstream segment hosted around twenty shows over four days. This year, one of the best reviewed was Bohoboco, a Warszawa duo who wonderfully mixed styles. Bohoboco is well known for dressing Polish celebrities. Zuo Corp (zuo, or zło, in Polish means evil) showed a very clean, symmetrical and humorous collection (bottom). As always, Łukasz Jemioł showed a very classic, sophisticated and casual range. Michał Szulc was depressing and minimalist, the public loved it!
The Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland has a lot to offer and inspire. The next and fifth Polish Fashion Week will be held this October.